What is it about blue divers? The Master X MbE from Helicon Watches

The sum of small details on an object is key to me, I believe that it is the only way to stand out. If you think about all the divers in the market, they are all very similar for the non- watch geek eye. It is not a coincidence as they all try somehow to follow the ISO standard for dive watches which really shapes the design of the final product. Here is where it gets exciting, well-made indices, different dials, date positions and handsets are some of the toys that a brand can play with and when I saw the Helicon Master at the British Watchmakers Day in London, I really wanted to get my hands on with one of them.

The first thing that struck me was the built quality, a tight well aligned bezel was always going to be the first test, it passed with honours. Then the case and crystal felt as a unison with a dial that really spoke to me, it is difficult to put it on words, but it was a great short experience.

Today I have a bit more time to spend with the new launch from Helicon: The Master X MbE which is a collaboration with the British fashion designer Timothy Everest. The watch is similar in specs and proportions than the one I handle at the show but this time, this version includes a degrade blue dial, I hope the pictures can make justice.

Join me to discover what can be the perfect summer watch of 2024.

The specifications.

There is always a debate whether a diver must be big or small because of legibility, but if the design is well made, there is nothing to worry about. The Master is 38.5 mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug distance of 48mm, very good proportion for an everyday wear. The design looks more into the vintage world with an oversized crown which plays well with a case with no crown guards. The rest of the watch does have modern conveniences such as a lumed bezel with a ceramic insert, solid end links and 200 meter of water resistance. The real stand out for me was the degrade blue dial which starts as a deep navy blue from 12 o clock, and it becomes a beautiful royal blue at 6 o clock, it is as outstanding as it sounds. Personally, I would have started with the lighter tone and then go for the darker deeper colour at the bottom trying to mimic the sea but, I am not a watch designer and in practice makes no difference.

The indices are something that the macro lenses picked up quite well, I am sure that the people at Helicon spent quite a bit of time perfecting them, just like the handset, there are not rough surfaces and even in watches that cost 5 times the price of the Master x MbE, the details are not as sharp. The roulette custom wheel adds a touch of fun which I quite enjoy and, in my opinion, when you are putting a date on a watch you must own it, so really like the execution of it here.

Inside the Master series from Helicon, we can find a reliable and robust Seiko self-winding movement which is protected against magnetism by a bespoke IPS-plated inner case, this particular feature means that the Master can be considered as a GADA watch, it can really do anything.

On the wrist

Wearing the Master is very easy, it has the right proportions in terms of size, the thickness is a bit deceiving as it is under 14mm but feels much thinner and because the lugs are short, for my 6.25-inch wrist the watch works nicely. The top head shot is the one that I keep staring, that degrade dial makes wonders in the sun, and then the contrast with the lume squares and large sword hands creates a good and legible companion.

I wore the Master on several occasions, I went to the gym and then also to the office, it did not feel out of place for both events, it is truly versatile. I had the opportunity to use the bracelet and the FMK rubber strap and because of summer, the rubber strap ended up taking my time with the watch. I found it extremely soft and comfortable because of the large openings, it makes it easier to breathe in the hot summer days.

That said the solid bracelet is also very comfortable and well made, the clasp and the links have a very solid feel and the tolerance when attaching to the case are very good, it just feels like a more expensive watch because of the built quality, it feels like no corners were cut.

Conclusions

My time with the Master from Helicon was great, it was a watch that I would easily have in my rotation and the main reason is because the versatility that it offers but at the same time the small details that can make you smile.

As a diver, the capabilities of water resistance and magnetism makes the watch a very capable do it all piece, not only looks sleek and elegant, but it is also built as a tank.

For all the reason above, this to me is a great offer from Helicon and I am keen to see what comes next from this British microbrand, if the quality is as high for their next watches, it would be an instant hit.

The Master is starts at 399 GBP with the rubber strap and is available also with bracelet in a variety of colours at www.heliconwatches.com 

Technical Specification

Diameter : 38.5mm

Thickness : 13.9mm

Lug to Lug : 48mm

Case : 316L Marine Grade Stainless Steel, individually numbered 1-50

Bezel : Unidirectional 120 ‘click’ rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant insert in ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in Swiss C3 Superluminova

Movement : Seiko, self-winding mechanical with custom-made roulette date wheel

Crystal : Scratch-resistant domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating inside only

Dial : Polished applied indices with Swiss C3 Superluminova

Hands : Polished with Swiss C3 Superluminova

Water Resistance :  20ATM/200M/650FT