Vintage is here to stay – The Fleux 003

Over the last decade we had an explosion on the vintage watch market, there was a sense of nostalgia in the air. Very fast, big brands started to realize that worry free vintage inspired pieces were going to be the future, and odd thought but it worked. Brands like Tudor and Longines had made a feast with this trend but somehow with a few exceptions, they never got the proportions right. The looks were spot on, but the watches were always a bit too thick, a bit too big. Basically, they felt like a new watch with old clothes at least to me. But small niggles a side, they were very successful, then people follow suit.

I am not sure how a modern-vintage inspired watch would age, maybe it would look out of place in the next 10 years, and this is the main reason why I am more in favour of and exact reproduction of a model instead of a contemporary design mixed with old vibes. This is what brands like Omega have understood from the beginning, faithful recreations with modern technology can be timeless, but then the downsize is the price. Exactly here is where watches from Fleux can corner the market, a Canadian microbrand producing vintage skindivers completely faithful to the 70s period.

Edward, the founder of Fleux has an eye for design and it really shows on their latest models the 003. The main idea is to re-create dive watches because they are utilitarian, but also to avoid their bruteness, make them more elegant and in my eyes, it is a success. Dive watches are a beautiful thing but the Fleux 00 Series, it is something that you can wear with a suit, it wouldn’t look out of place.

Join me to discover their latest release. A watch that to me has all the elements that I enjoy on a vintage watch. Let’s us begin not dive.

The specifications

There is no secret that the Fleux 003 is inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300 ‘’Big triangle’’ which was commissioned by the British MOD and selected for its high legibility, the triangle basically easily orientates the user while in dark environments, simple but effective. Coming back to the Fleux 003, the watch has the key design elements like the big triangle at 12, explorer style Arabic numerals and of course the broad arrow hands, where it really differs in within the case. The proprietary 316L stainless steel body design by Fleux is still in place, with the very thin friction countdown bezel. The bezel is also 1mm lager for better grip, a small detail but it is appreciated.

At 38mm of diameter with 47mm lug to lug, the 003 feels at home in my 6.25 ich wrist. The mixture of brushed and polished elements makes the watch feel elegant but robust at the same time, the absence of crown guards gives away the vintage nature and it’s elevated with the ‘’puffy’’ beige lumed which looks period correct but glows with modern convenience, I am charmed by it.

The dial is matte to avoid any reflections and I really like the contrast between that texture and the glossy bezel, it looks outstanding. The hesalite double-domed crystal is tall and distorts the edges like a vintage watch, everything looks how it should.

The Fleux 003 has no date which is a welcome feature, this is thanks to the Seiko SII NH38A Movement, no ghost date and Japanese made. I’ve asked Edward if he calibrated the watch or has done something to it because not only its running admirably, but it is the quietest Seiko I’ve tried so far, there is little o no rotor noise which is very impressive.

On the wrist

All of the previous wouldn’t mean anything if the watch is not comfortable or feels proportioned on the wrist. the 12mm thickness is ideal for this type of watch and compact lug to lug means that it will stay centered and sleek on a variety of wrists. The watch comes with an elegant and durable Sequal recycled ocean plastic strap with quick release spring bars, it supports a noble initiative that cleans the Ocean by recycling plastic to make everyday objects.

The Fleux 003 feels great on a variety of occasions, I was not exaggerating when I mentioned that it could be worn with a suit, but again change the strap and you could add versatility and sportiness. One small wish from my side would be that the watch case had drilled lugs, but again nothing to worry when you have quick release bars with the supplied strap, also to be fair the tapering and flow of the lugs would be interrupted.

I haven’t tested the Fleux on its natural habitat, but it offers 200 meters of water resistance via the screwed signed crown and the closed caseback, despite looking vintage it is actually a handy tool watch, it can take a beating.

Conclusions

Many brands have vintage inspired watches with modern capabilities, but what Fleux brings to the table is elegance which I believe is missed by many. Elegance and nostalgia are the main points for today’s watch clientele, all because the objects are smaller, delicate and bring that odd smile when you look at them. That said convenient is something that they are not, and this is why I haven’t stopped wearing the 003, it is different and worry free, also it looks like nothing in my current collection. I was so keen on sharing the photos while it was under embargo and now I can, I hope they make justice to what a great all-rounder is.

The Fleux 003 is available now at https://www.fleuxwatches.com/collections/collection/products/fleux-flx003

Technical specifications

316L Stainless steel case

20ATM (660ft = 200m) water resistance

38mm case (+1mm with bezel)

14mm case thickness (to top of crystal)

12mm case thickness (from the bottom of the lugs to the top of the bezel)

47mm lug-to-lug

20mm lug width

Hesalite double-domed crystal

Brushed case finishing

Polished chamfers

Bi-directional friction fit bezel

Aluminum bezel insert

SII NH38A Movement (Japan) | 21,600 bph | -20~+40s per day | 41 hr power reserve