Vintage flair mixed with modernity – Serica 8315 GMT Desert Red

Vintage inspired watches have been popular for a while now. I am a big fan not only because they provide an air of nostalgia, but because they also work. To me, nothing is worse than being worried about wearing a watch, I like to use them and very actively.

Serica is a brand that I was not so familiar with, but I always enjoyed their design language from afar, it is full of vintage references. This Paris based company is one that enjoys reviving design cues that no other brands will touch such as exaggerated the strap tapering, use a sterile dial or metal guilloche end links.

Serica has enjoyed success with their divers, more specifically their reference 5303 Crystal Blue. The attention to details for the construction and unique amalgamation of aesthetic choices put Serica on the map, specially at the price range that they operate, more on that later.

Today we have the 8135 GMT in Desert Red configuration. We could easily have gone for their Enamel Black model which seems to be the most popular in their current catalogue. But I think this red (brownish) GMT has some of the most interesting colour palettes I’ve experienced, it is subjective, but for me it works.

Serica also tries to add a touch of elegance on their watches by using deep glossy dials or gilt fonts, and here is where I think the 8315 shines, it is a utilitarian watch with a hint of refinement. Join me to discover the model.

The specifications

The 8315 is 39mm in diameter with a lug to lug of 46.5mm, it wears perfect on my 6.25-inch wrist. It does feel like those mid-century watches but with a bit more presence due to the 12.3mm thickness. I wouldn’t call the watch thick because the competition on watches with these types of automatic movements are even thicker.

The watch houses a Swiss Soprod calibre C125 which has been COSC certified. It is quite accurate and feels great to wind. The movement it is what’s known as a ‘’caller’’ GMT which at this point in terms of watch offerings, people are choosing what they feel more comfortable with. I happen to prefer that the watch is chronometer certified as once is set, it feels more reliable than a ‘’travellers’’ GMT with a non-Swiss calibre, at least this is my thinking when it comes to the under 2000 EUR price range.

Now that we got the numbers and measurements out of the way is time to focus on the looks. This is an important part from the brand’s DNA, mainly due to the founder’s obsession with vintage watches.

Starting with the dial, the 8315 feels like a watch that we have seen before but somehow you cannot place it in your head. Of course, the layout is more of a typical GMT including a divided bi-colour bezel which in this case is asymmetrical purely for aesthetic reasons and a second time zone hand, but here is where similarities end.  The 8135 is an exercise of details which includes gilt printing, a lollipop GMT hand and lume plots that are very close to the centre of the dial, all giving a fresh and unique look.

Coming back to the bezel, and more specifically how it feels, the 8315 has one of the nicest clicks rotating experiences I’ve had. The clicks itself feel precise and mechanical, it is a bidirectional bezel but doesn’t have any play whatsoever and it would be impossible to align it incorrectly. The only brand that feels similar in precision is Damasko which has a proprietary technology for their bezels, both are different but equally impressive.

The dial is to me the best part, not only because is different but because it is very warm. I can understand why people are more drawn to the Enamel Black version with a splash of red, it looks very elegant with that white bezel, but the letters in gold with that sage strap in our Desert Red version, takes me back to where Serica wanted me to be: the golden era of watches.

The case is not less impressive, a lot of work has been put to create an ergonomic feeling and a vintage flair. The twisted lugs are a testament to this, and the brushed of the mid-case with the no crown guards complete the look. It is well balanced because by adding the lugs, crown and double domed sapphire crystal, the watch still looks and feels compact in terms of sizing.

On the wrist.

I am not going to say that the watch feels vintage because it doesn’t. it does look much older that it is, but it feels as contemporary as possible, and I mean that as a complement. The watch tolerances are very good as every piece from the ceramic bezel to the end links oozes quality.

Apart from the proportion, part of the wearing experience is the rubber strap, yes you read that correctly. The watch comes in an injected textured natural rubber strap that looks like leather (I would say that it feels like leather too) but it has all the durability from rubber. It tappers from 20mm to 15mm giving again that vintage vibe.

I wore the 8135 on mostly at an office environment, it works well and even that I did not travel, it never felt over engineered or out of place. It is a dressy watch but in reality, with the added comfort on the strap and 200 meters of water resistance, this could easily be your everyday watch not only to go abroad but to dive as well.

The watch gathers the attention from many of my colleagues in a good way. It is not a large watch, but the colours do make a statement, is not the easiest watch to match with an outfit but casual looks will always win on this one in my opinion. Just like any brown palette it might require more thoughts than a black accessory, but I will still pick this version as it feels more me.

Concluding thoughts

The 8135 brings quite a bit of originality starting from the box that also brings unique details from the past. It is a watch that I manage to admire in short time, and I did not need more than 2 weeks to fall for it and that doesn’t happen often. I was mainly drawn to the dial and uniqueness of the colour scheme; it is something I do not currently have in rotation.

Another thing to highlight is that Serica offers to change the crown position at no cost. Me being me, would have enjoyed the crown at 9 o clock to make the watch even more unique, a nice touch.

The Serica 8135 starts at 1890 EUR and goes a bit higher if you decide to add the guilloche end links, in my opinion I think is worth it as it improves the wearing experience and add to the overall look of the watch.

We have seen many vintage inspired watches lately and what I like most of the approach from Serica is that they do not focus in one particular reference to create a watch, they look at the particular era of watchmaking and create a unique proposition. There is a lot to like, and I am sure I will be looking more on what is coming from this special brand.

Technical Specifications

Case materials: Stainless Steel 316L

Diameter: 39 mm

Thickness: 12.2 mm

Lugs: 20 mm

Movement: Swiss self-winding C125 COSC

Bezel:  Desert red & White Ceramic insert

Dial: Enameled Dark Brown

Glass: Sapphir double-dome

Power reserve: 40 hours

Water resistance: 200m (20ATM)