Feeling the blues – The RZE Fortitude GMT-S
From the get-go, a blue dial feels special, but it must be the perfect shade of blue. Of course, the right colour palette and intensity could be very subjective, mainly because feelings and opinions (like this review) will get in the way of appreciating a truly beautiful object.
RZE which we know and love, just added 2 new varieties to their Fortitude line up call GMT-S. The new watches come with Silver Sunburst and a Blue Sapphire dial. You might think that this write up will be me describing a face swap and how good it looks but the reality, it is much more than that, this is a new territory from the brand.
It seems that RZE is now dipping their toes into the luxury-tool watch game and the sophisticated sunburst Fortitudes are the perfect vehicle to achieve this. It is worth noting that the brand is not raising the prices for a more refined product.
It has been interesting to see how RZE has evolved over the years, from their re-branding to latest models and even opening their own adventure gear line up, this is a brand that has become a favourite for many enthusiast . With this in mind, let’s begin to explore.
The specifications
Well, after the previous introduction, it is worth remembering that there is a lot of technical features on the Fortitude line. Nothing has change in terms of specifications and RZE has kept the 41mm case with the 47 mm lug to lug, making the watch wearable with a good stance. Refinement is something that also can be subjective, but the new Sapphire Sunburst has a simpler dial which takes out the crosshair pattern, the sandwich dial, and its matte surface. At this point you might be thinking that is a cheaper version of the watch we know and love, but you will be wrong because where an internal minute scale was placed on the old model, we now have a clean pathway to let the sunburst dial breathe. We also have an applied logo, skeletonized brushed matching hands and blue dial that will put to shame any Swiss counterparts, it is stunning. The orange GMT hand still makes way into the composition. The big crown with the red tube announcing that the watch is un-screwed are some of the touches that are still present, no need to change what is working.
We still have the full case and bracelet made of grade 2 titanium, it is light and with the proprietary Ultra-Hex coating, the watch is ready to perform.
One of the Fortitude’s party tricks is the Miyota 9075 movement. It is a ‘flyer’ GMT that does everything right, not only reliable but also a gem among enthusiasts, we have been waiting a long time for this and we are still glad to see it among us. The watch also has 100 meters of water resistance.
On the wrist
There are no surprises nor changes, the watch wears slim at 12mm and that titanium feels light as feather. The shape of the links with the turbine inspired bezel make the watch feel utilitarian, but the dial really changes everything, in my opinion makes it more versatile.
The Fortitude is a pilots watch but in the first iteration with the gradient dial added more precision details, made it feel more utilitarian. This new version feels a tad dressier, something that a commercial airline pilot would wear, I guess you do not have to be a jet fighter to use it.
I wore the new Fortitude everywhere. I’ve been travelling, going to the office and the gym and the watch has never felt out of place. Despite that, the case has drilled lugs and quick release, I haven’t been able to take it out of the stock titanium bracelet, it would be a shame not only because of the fit and finishing but also because of the clasp. The on-the-fly micro adjustment is one of the best I’ve handled on this material, it is just too easy to use. I will still put it on a great nato strap, but it will comeback to the bracelet in no time, I know myself too well.
Legibility is something that RZE has always put attention to, and this new Fortitude is no exception. The bright BGW9 mixed with the C3 superluminova make a great light show at night, everything looks coherent and well torched. It is a pilots watch after all and aided by the symmetry of the dial, the Fortitude is very easy to read, good looking too.
Conclusions
While I was wearing this Sapphire Fortitude I was suddenly thinking, has RZE lost its ways? Are they now entering a new segment and leaving their tool like nature behind? But when you have a titanium well made case, legibility and a movement that can take a beating, you can see that clearly this is an evolution and not a domestication. The Fortitude GMT- S is one of the best watches I’ve tried this year and with this blue dial, I am just convinced that it needs to stay in the collection with pride and joy.
Now that leave us with the question, should you go for the silver dial or the blue one? I have the blue with me while I am writing this review, and I cannot stop thinking of that grey beauty. I will give the edge to our press sample but if you can, why not both? The price is not obscene and a grey dial with a grey titanium body, well, it is just business. The Fortitude GMT-S price starts at 699 USD more information here:
Technical Specifications:
- 41mm case width
- 12mm case thickness
- 47mm case length /lug-to-lug
- 20mm lug width tapers to 16mm at buckle
- Weight: 110-120g (with bracelet)
-Solid Titanium with UltraHex™ Coating (up to ~1200Hv hardness)
- Miyota 9075 "True" GMT Automatic Movement
- 100m (330ft) / 10ATM
- Screw-down crown with custom embossed logo
- Radial sunburst dial with custom applied indexes
- Swiss Superluminova BGW9 and C3
- Sapphire Crystal with inner-side Super-AR
- Solid Titanium bracelet with UltraHex™ Coating (with 316L stainless steel "On-the-fly" adjustment buckle)
- Screw-down solid titanium caseback with VITON® gasket
- Included extras: Blackcomb Pouch with Standard Packaging Option
コメント